Killinaboy Church
Killinaboy Church is located in the south-west corner of the Burren, adjacent to an important ancient routeway now traversed by the modern R476 road. The name Killinaboy, (sometimes presented as Kilnaboy) is thought to be derived from the Irish Cill Iníne Baoith – which may mean the Church of the Daughter of Baoith. A possible reference to an obscure early saint.
The church is within the parish of Killinaboy, that extends from Corofin to Tullycommon from north to south, and from Aglish to Leameneagh from east to west. The church is part of the deeply historic landscape of the Burren. A cursory look at the Sites and Monuments Record of Ireland (available on the Historic Environment Viewer) shows a wealth of monuments in the surrounding area. From Bronze Age fulacht fiadhs, early medieval ringforts, and later towerhouses, to a 17th century fortified house. This concentration of monuments likely reflects the relatively good pastureland of the immediate area, that is relatively richer and more fertile than the neighbouring stonier slopes of the Burren. As well as the importance of the routeway mentioned earlier.
Killinaboy Church and its surrounding graveyard also reflect centuries of Ireland’s history. It started as an early monastery, though there is little recorded historically about this early phase of the foundation. Physical evidence for an early monastery can be seen in the stump of a round tower in the graveyard. It stands approximately 4m tall. The tower is said to have been largely demolished by Cromwellian forces in the 17th century, though again there is little historical evidence to support this. The roughly coursed nature of the construction is perhaps a more likely reason that it no longer stands today.
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Aerial view of Corcomroe Abbey and the landscape of the Burren • Clare
The Sheela na Gig of Killinaboy Church
The sheela na gig • Killinaboy Church
More evidence for the long history can be seen in the variety of architectural styles visible in the church. It has elements of Hiberno-Romanesque from the 12th century, along with more Gothic style features from the 13th century like the fine eastern window, and a 15th century aumbry close to the altar. It also shows evidence of later alteration and reconstruction.
The western gable of the church is particularly interesting. Again it shows a number of different phases in its stonework, along with an unusual depiction of a double-armed cross, known as the Cross of Lorraine. The original Cross of Lorraine held a relic of the True Cross. There are a number of other True Cross reliquaries around Europe, and many are in the same double-armed design, such as at Holy Cross Abbey in Tipperary. This may hint that a similar reliquary was once held here at Killinaboy. If that was indeed the case, that would have made Killinaboy Church an important place for pilgrimage in medieval Ireland.
Another significant carving at Killinaboy Church is the sheela na gig, that is positioned over the southern door into the church. She is depicted with visible ribs on the the right hand side, and her hands appear to meet just above the vulva. There has long been debate over the function and meaning of sheela na gigs. Some believe that they represent a pre-Christian or pagan goddess, others that they are a fertility symbol, while others believe they are a defence against the Evil Eye. We do know that these figures typically date to between the late 12th – 16th century, and that they are found on medieval town walls, towerhouses, and churches like here at Killinaboy or at St Munna’s in Westmeath. That they are often found on church sites perhaps diminishes the likelihood that they are some sort of pagan goddess, as otherwise it is difficult to imagine a priest allowing them to be placed in such a prominent position. Sheela na gigs are a particularly intriguing part of Irish history, and it is well worth watching the Tuatha Talk on Sheela na Gigs by Gary Dempsey and Orla-Peach Power of the Sheela-na-Gig 3D project, for a deeper discussion on these enigmatic idols.
The sheela na gig • Killinaboy Church
Interior of the choir of Corcomroe Abbey • Clare
One historical reference to Killinaboy Church appears in the Annals of the Four Masters from 1573, when it records that the church was sacked and looted during a family civil war amongst the O’Briens of Dal Cais. It records that one force of warriors, including gallowglass mercenaries, under the command of Teige, the son of Conor O’Brien, joined forces with the Butlers and the Mac Sweenys to raid the territory held by their rivals:
‘From thence they marched, to wreak their vengeance upon the inhabitants… and the cries and shrieks of the unfortunate people whom they plundered gave warning of their march in every place through which they passed. They proceeded onwards over the stone road of Coradh Finne (Corofin), by the gate of the castle of Inchiquin, and by Bothar-na-mac-Riogh; and some of their people carried utensils and spoils out of the church of Cill-inghine-Baoith (Killinaboy); but this profanation of the church of that saint boded no triumph or success to the Dal-Cais…’
There are a number of interesting features within Killinaboy Church and its historic graveyard. These include a medieval graveslab that depicts a tau-shaped crozier, with a mitre (or bell) depicted underneath. This likely marked the grave of a bishop, coarb, or other high ranking ecclesiastical figure. The representation of a tau cross was also used to mark the boundaries of the monastic termon of Killinaboy. One survives today and is on display in the Clare Heritage Centre at Corofin, while a replica stands in its place at the bend in the road between Killinaboy and Leamaneh Castle.
Killinaboy Church had fallen into ruin by the 17th century, and it was largely replaced when the new Protestant church was built in Corofin in 1718. Though the quiet graveyard that surrounds the church continued as an important place for burial. You can see a fine carving of the crucifixion from 1644 in the tomb niche on the south wall of the church, and a number of historic graves from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
Today Killinaboy Church remains an atmospheric and historic stop at the gateway to the Burren.
Upper left: the effigy of Conor Conor na Suidaine O’Brien • Lower left: the northern wall of the choir • Right: the effigy of an abbot
Top: the effigy of Conor Conor na Suidaine O’Brien • Middle: the effigy of an abbot • Bottom: the northern wall of the choir
Killinaboy Church Visitor Information
A feature filled ruin of a medieval church, with an unusual Cross of Lorraine and a sheela na gig.
